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More About Assamese Traditional Jewellery
Assamese Ornaments are one of the most important parts of Assamese Culture and generally made of gold, silver or gold-plated. Assamese Ornaments were originally used by Ahom Kings and Queens of Assam and from that period these Ornaments have occupied an honorable position in Assamese Society. Assamese Traditional Ornaments are typically hand-made, and the design mostly depicts the floral and faunal treasures of the region. Thus, the beauty of Assam is found in its culture, tradition, dresses, ornaments, festivals, foods, Japi etc. which reflects the rich heritage of Assam and makes the various products of Assam unique in the country. Ornaments play a very significant role in the day to day life of the Assamese women not only in the ancient times but also at the present day. Assam is not only famous for its greenery, wildlife, bihu festival, one horned rhinoceros, tea gardens, the brahmaputra river, Eri and Muga Silk, and for legendary Bhupen Hazarika, but it is equally famous for Assamese Traditional Ornaments for their unique designs. Assamese Ornaments are inspired by the flora and fauna, and the surroundings objects such as musical instruments etc. Assamese Traditional Jewellery is completely hand-made. In manufacturing, the main-frame is made of silver which is covered by thin gold covering. The designs of the ornaments are simple and gemstones such as ruby, Anganas, meenakari and even diamonds are used. The most popular colours used is black, green and red enameling which is done on Gold Jewellery. Some of the popular Assamese Traditional Ornaments include earings such as : Lokaparo, Keru, Thuriya, Jangphai, Long keru, array of necklaces including Golpata, Satsori, Jonbiri, Bena, Gejra, Dholbiri, Doogdoogi, Birimoni, MukutaMoni, Poalmoni, SilikhaMoni and Magardana and diversified rings including senpata Horinsakua, Jethinejia, Bakharpata and many more. The Manufacture of Gold Ornaments, as well as gold-washing flourished in medieval Assam during the reign of the Ahom dynasty. Gold dust was abundantly found in the sands of different rivers of the state, but mainly from the river Subansiri, one of the major tributaries of the Brahmaputra. During the rule of the Ahom kings, gold-washing on the banks of the Subansiri (meaning “flow of gold”) was a major profession of the sonowal kacharis. Jorhat, Nagaon, & Barpeta Districts of Assam are the main manufacturers of Assamese Traditional Ornaments. Jorhat and Sonari in upper Assam, Nagaon in center Assam and Barpeta in lower Assam have been major the hubs of manufacturing throughout the centuries. The jewellers are called ‘Sonari’ in Assamese language. Their technique of making Ornaments bears resemblances to the traditions of South East Asia, much more than to other nearby parts of India itself.
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Uses of Assamese Jewellery:
Both Assamese men and women used to wear Assamese ornaments in different parts of their body. The female put bracelets known as Gam-Kharu made of either gold or silver on their wrists of their hands. Most of the neck ornaments are made of beads. The necklace with bigger beads called matamani and larger beads with drum shaped ornaments are called a madal. Ornaments which are put on arm called Baju or Ujanti. Those used on the nose by women are called Nakphul. An ornament which is used by women on their forehead just below the parting of the hair is called Citipoti. Items which are used as a necklaces include-Jonbiri, Dholbiri, Silikha, Madali, Gejera, Bana, Kathal kuhia madali, Dugdugi, Sonahar, Galpata, Galakantha, Chandrahar, Rupadhar, Gajamatihar etc. Several types of ear ornaments are used which includes Lokapara, Thuria, Dighalkeru, Bakharnakeru, Ukakeru, Titakariakeru, Jangphaikeru, Karnaphul etc. Different kinds of finger-rings includes- Jethineguri Angathi, PatiaAngathi, Babariphulia Angathi etc.